The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.

A serendipitous meeting while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the course of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the city's buzzing 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.

"That era was the zenith of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

Although Enninful appears nostalgic, he is far from alone. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. But in the intervening decades, Enninful perceives a profound shift. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

A Perceived Regression

This change is increasingly evident: the resurgence of far-right politics, the pushback against so-called "wokeness", and the return of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the Blair era, today a different political figure stands as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has sparked debate once more.

According to Enninful, the response has consistently been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the core philosophy behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of cultural icons from literature.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a lenient country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this period will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the next generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They talk about systemic issues – I was not even aware what that was."

Those early experiences would define a trailblazing career built on boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured diverse covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Significantly, sales rose.

"When you ignore large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s bad for business," he emphasises.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "disruptor".

"I constantly interrogate the conventional wisdom. I was raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being on the inside and the outside."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His journey has not been immune to challenges, including publicly shared periods of depression and addiction.

He has also faced significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to partial sight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, not working, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This determination to fit into a box has led him outside the industry that established him. He is now putting together a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who lacked adequate attention at the time.

"Galleries didn't always celebrate the truly innovative creators because they weren't of the right pedigree," he comments.

This venture itself functions with a unique approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is a piece within a greater ecosystem."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward react to the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be proud. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I never imagined institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He adds. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."